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WWD
WWD | MILES SOCHA
PARIS — Crafting succession plans for its creative departments is no doubt a smart strategy for any large fashion firm.
But the scale of today’s most powerful brands is increasingly insulating them from turbulence when designers depart — whether from death, retirement, flameout, poaching or otherwise.
Christian Dior — one of the hottest topics of this European fashion season — is a case in point.
The search for a successor to disgraced designer John Galliano has now clicked into its second year — a delay which so far has not proven an impediment to the French firm’s business momentum. Operating profits more than doubled last year as sales in Dior’s own stores advanced 28 percent.
Dior has remained mum on its intentions, insisting it will take all the time it needs to find the right designer.
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The house is believed to be mulling continuing with a team approach, possibly adding some young, up-and-coming talents. The studio is currently headed by longtime Galliano collaborator Bill Gaytten, who has earned encouraging reviews — and traction at retail — for subdued collections faithful to Dior’s iconic, Fifties-flavored glamour.
As reported in these columns, Dior has also conducted talks with hot young Parisian design Maxime Simoens, who made his debut Monday as the creative director at Leonard. Sources indicated Leonard and Simoens are likely to reveal a separation by mutual agreement.
While far less known and accomplished than other contenders for the Dior job — who have ranged from Marc Jacobs to Alber Elbaz — Simoens’ story is a compelling one with echoes of Yves Saint Laurent, who famously succeeded Christian Dior following the founder’s death in
Aside from a physical resemblance — a reed-thin physique and prominent eyeglasses — Simoens, 27, is a French wunderkind. The bio on his Web site notes that he became the first designer ever to be accepted as a me
Chloéhas been home to more designers than a cat has lives—and that’s just how Gaby Aghion, who died today at the age of 93, intended it to be. Born in Egypt, Aghion established the company in with Jacques Lenoir and presented her first collection at renowned artists hangout Café de Flore, thus cementing the Left Bank (read: youthful, spirited) cred of the house, which helped shape the concept of the haute boho look.
Chloé first became an incubator of talent in when Aghion passed the reins to French designer Gérard Pipart. Karl Lagerfeld joined the house as part of a design team in , and for many years after, his name was synonymous with the house. The post-Lagerfeld years at Chloé (he did a second stint at the house in the early nineties) have been distinguished by the female talents at the helm: young Brits like Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo, and, since , Clare Waight Keller. Here, in memory of Gaby Aghion, the woman who started it all, a look at Chloé’s family tree.
Chloe
trendlet
Slideshow: Six of Fall’s Biggest TrendsFall’s biggest runway trends included capes, blazers, tall socks, Highland plaids, and more.
beauty marks
Lanvin Announces New Scent; Lady Gaga Fragrance Rumors ReturnAlso, Mad Men’s makeup artist talks about looks for season four.
loose threads
Bernard Arnault Has $ Billion; Rihanna Wears Flotation Devices OnstageAlso, Anja Rubik returns for Fendi’s fall campaign.
tastemakers
Jeanne Greenberg Rohatyn Will Weather Summer in Tie-dye Leather ShortsThe gallerist and ‘Work of Art’ judge discusses her enviable wardrobe.
model tracker
Meet the New Girl: Is Ajak the Next Alek Wek?The Sudanese model has walked for Givenchy, Maison Martin Margiela, and Marc by Marc Jacobs.
campaign trail
Veteran Models Reign Supreme in the Fall Campaigns, Though Angels Continue to Cross OverFind out who Karen Elson, Karlie Kloss, Adriana Lima, and others are repping this fall.
reader look book
Reader Look Book: Show Us Your Runway-Inspired LooksSubmit your photo to the Reader Look Book.
boing!
Amanda Seyfried Frets She’s Too Sexy For Her FansThe prudish eyes of ‘Dear John’ fans might not like what they see with her new, sexy-psycho role.
model tracker
Jac Is Paris Fashion Week’s Top ModelThe runways in Paris were filled with unexpected surprises and some very special appearances, but Jac came out on top.
fashion week diary
Yaeger: Louis Vuitton Was a Compelling SambaHow big of a carbon footprint did Chanel get from transporting that giant iceberg back and forth from Sweden?
loose threads
Burkas Hit the Paris Runways; Ryan Seacrest Faces Oscar BacklashAlso, Cathy Horyn on the return of curves.
Openings
Janis Is the New Beatrice and Jesse Malin Is the New Paul Sevigny, Got It?How not to make your lounge the new Beatrice Inn.
trailer mix
The New Chloe Trailer Is Absolutely TerrifyingAmanda Seyfried tries to ruin Julianne Moore’
French fashion
Overview of fashion in the French Republic
Fashion in France is an important subject in the culture and country's social life, as well as being an important part of its economy.
Fashion design and production became prominent in France since 15th century. During the 17th century, fashion exploded into a rich industry, for exportation and local consumption. In the 19th century, fashion made a transition into specialisation for modern term haute couture, originated in the s, bringing good taste to fashion argot. The term prêt-à-porter was born in the s, reacting against the traditional notions of fashion and garment-making process, satisfying the needs of pop culture and mass media.
Paris acts as the center of the fashion industry and holds the name of global fashion capital. The city is home to many prime designers, including Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Balmain, Christian Louboutin, Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint Laurent, Roger Vivier, Thierry Mugler, Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Hermès, Lanvin, Chloé, Rochas, and Céline.
With the decentralization of the fashion industry, many cities including Lyon, Marseille, Bordeaux, Toulouse, Lille and Strasbourg have their own luxury districts and avenues. In recent times, these have become important customers and significant producers. Île-de-France, Manosque, La Gacilly (near Rennes), and Vichy lead the cosmetic industry, home of well-known international beauty houses such as L'Oréal, Lancôme, Guerlain, Clarins, Yves Rocher, L'Occitane, Vichy, etc. The cities of Nice, Cannes and St. Tropez among others in the French riviera are well known as places of pleasure, annually hosting many media celebrities and personalities, potentates, and billionaires. The clothing of France is famous throughout the world.
History
17th century, the Baroque and Classicism
Fashion prints
The association of France with fashion and style (